Purely on craft, yes Id choose someone like Jennie. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). This is the process by which my suit was also made. Quite pleased with my first classic bespoke suit from W&S. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . In terms of an every day style for work, would you so this would be more suitable than Edward Sexton? Suit looks great and fantastic value, how would you say this would compare to Edward Sexton made to measure which is slightly more expensive. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. Very best. Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Do listen to the tailor when you talk about it as well. . Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? The suit was very large in the shoulders, it had no shape in the body, but the first fitting is for the tailor, so I left it to her to do her job and I had lost some weight. The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Simon. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? Not for anything approaching a Neapolitan cut Stuart, no. No, its a good question. I cant afford full Savile Row or top Neapolitan prices for my bespoke fetish, so I first read this review with great interest. I had a second basted fitting, in which some of the issues were accounted for. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. After reading your reviews, I am definitely considering the W&S Classic Bespoke offering. Got it, thanks. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke Navy Wool Savile Row Classic Fishtail Trousers LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke Mid Grey Fresco Hopsack Explorer Pants #1 LNWOT BIG GUYS Paolo Martorano Bespoke S110s Italian Wool Draped Gabardine Pants + 69.35 Postage + 2.22 VAT will apply Shop with confidence eBay Premium Service I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Watch. 4,523 Followers, 192 Following, 829 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke (@whitcombshaftesbury) whitcombshaftesbury. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Thanks, and great suggestions. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. Buttonholes are sewn with silk thread by hand. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Wow, I think this looks fabulous! I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Hi Sam As there are no buttons and buttonholes on the fittings, I couldnt detect this issue. Thats largely due to length of the jacket, and a slightly fuller skirt. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. Im looking forward to stopping by! I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. 192 following. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. Drakes MTM program is priced only slightly above its RTW, so its something Ive wondered about a lot as I try and build my own tailoring wardrobe, especially of softer styles. But then youre paying over twice the price. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Thanks. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Youll have to contact them. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Thank you for your help and the great website. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. i.e. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Photography: Jack Lawson. I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. I dont know her which says something. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Thanks for all the informative articles. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . That means the clothes have been designed specifically for you and no one else. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. B.) I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. I note your enthusiasm for W&S. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Or are they at a much higher price point than W&S? To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. If those people want that product, they now know exactly what they need to pay for it 3,050 (the price of the Savile Row Bespoke product) rather than 1,350 (the Classic Bespoke). When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. At this stage of your life, I wouldnt stretch to one of the others. Thank you very much for all your great advice! Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Classic Race Simulators Showroom Tripadvisor: An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? I have received and worn the suit, and can highly recommend it. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. How about the Huntsman 100 product? She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. But yes, I know the trend you mean. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. And often they vary in service depending on who does the outfitting. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Used to work with John at Kilgour, then at Thom Sweeney and at McQueen for a bit, So I presume you would have no hesitation in using W&S even if you were not working with John McCabe, Would you recommend W&S for a relaxed soft shouldered cashmere jacket to be worn with chinos and jeans? Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Not really Im afraid Chris I havent had a chance to try it or look through the process in detail. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. That makes more sense. Thanks as always, In London, just them and city tailors like Graham Browne. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Thats really interesting to hear. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. The prices are comparable. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Explore. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Very good sales and marketing. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! This shouldnt really be surprising. In other words, when you order a bespoke suit, youre effectively speaking for that piece of clothing telling the tailor exactly what you want it to look like and how you want it to fit.Bespoke suits are usually made from higher-quality materials than ready-to-wear or off-the rack suits, and theyre designed to last longer. McCabe and Bigg are masters of old English styling, whereas Walton cuts a comfortable, contemporary jacket with drape with shape, loosely inspired by her training (under McCabe) at Kilgour. Updated: Dec 14, 2021. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). Just what Im looking for. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Thank you for getting back to me. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. I ask because our access to Neapolitan tailors in Los Angeles is limited but I wanted something I could wear in summer similar to the way youve been wearing your charcoal G+H linen suit. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. I understand this instinct, but it really depends on the house itself and how it works. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. 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