Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. Having two cars so as to shuttle between trailheads made the logistics a lot easier. Wonderful backpack but challenging for us 60-75 year old hikers. From there we day packed to evolution lake the third day. My girlfriends told me I started singing gospel at that point, but I really think they may be exaggerating. Then I got some water and filtered it. Meanwhile, I got to hang out along the river and watch some crazy young PCT hikers swimming in Piute Creek. The Evolution Loop is a magnificent route through some of the most inspiring terrain in the High Sierra. Hundreds of feet of granite on one side, and beautiful open meadow on the other. There was still quite a bit of snow on the surrounding mountains and still ice in the lake. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). It was desert like in the high alpine on that side. Muir Pass I ate my usual cup of hot oatmeal and packed up my gear. Though cooler than July, day-wear was still shorts and t-shirts and nights two layers and a puffy jacket. Glaciers clung to the northern slopes of the mountains, feeding small waterfalls. One of the greatest hikes I've ever done. For a topographic map of the hike see my CalTopo Page, For LOTS more photos of the trek see my Flickr Page, Dawn alpenglow over Evolution Lake as I packed up all my gear for another big day of hiking, Dawn color in the clouds above Evolution Valley to the north, Waterfall on the creek that descends from Darwin Bench, after the JMT descends into Evolution Valley, Crossing the creek below the waterfall it was very wide with many small crossings, The Hermit (12328 feet elevation), standing alone and shining bright, at the upper end of Evolution Valley, View up Evolution Valley, over McClure and Colby Meadows with Evolution Creek on the right, and The Hermit, center, The McClure Meadow Ranger Station and the notices outside near the trail, View over McClure Meadow in the morning light, Still water on an curving stretch of Evolution Creek, down in the flat section of Evolution Valley, This is the lower ford of Evolution Creek, where the PCT-JMT crosses this could be dangerous in Spring, The first of several powerful waterfalls and cascades on Evolution Creek down at the lower end of Evolution Valley, One waterfall after another on this section of the creek, Wide-angle GoPro shot looking down into the worn granite where Evolution Creek tumbled downward, One last view of Evolution Creek as it churned down a granite chute on its way out of Evolution Valley, Mount Henry (12196 feet) peeking out between two glaciated granite domes above the South Fork San Joaquin River, The wooden bridge where the JMT-PCT first crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, Aspen and pine forest at a much lower elevation it was HOT, The metal bridge where the PCT-JMT crosses the South Fork San Joaquin River, View from the metal bridge looking north (downstream), The South Fork San Joaquin River as I hiked north on the John Muir Trail in the sun, The river goes through a steep gorge down below a talus slide. At Muir Pass base, if the snow looks significant above, take the first stream crossing at the very bottom of Muir Pass because the stream only gets deeper going up. After descending into the valley, I noticed how hot it was. . Aahhh! Our simple food choices were holding very well. . After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. Bears are not much of a problem along this stretch of the John Muir Trail. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. Truthfully, I wasnt all that worried about a bear. Didnt know you needed a reservation to drive through Yosemite, so consider going through Sonora Pass (unless you go through after 4pm). Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Moderate. There are possible campsites on Darwin Bench. At night, Id comb through maps by headlamp, creating my ultimate ticklist for the parks. Camp, or finish the last 2.7 miles to the trailhead. The climb up to Piute Pass was uneventful, passing a series of lakes on the way to the day's high point. I would head up the trail. Day Zero Travel day. Depending on your fitness level, you can get to the valley in a day, and choose to go farther to Evolution Lake. The water was seriously cascading as it made its way over the steep edge of the valley, flowing downward into the South Fork San Joaquin River Valley, which I could see off the edge of space to the north. The SteriPen uses UV light to kill the germs. Continue straight at this 3-way in Hutchinson Meadow. The uphill miles to reach John Muir Pass gave quite a different landscape than we had seen so far. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). Day 4: Today turned out to be a truly cushy one. The information provided on this website is done so without warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to, the implied warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose. I checked my GPS and discovered that I had hiked almost 15 miles today! We were lucky with good weather. I sat down on a boulder near my gear and got out some snack. Our group of six left a vehicle at the termination point (South Lake trailhead) then drove to the North Lake overnight parking lot and we started our journey in the late afternoon. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. Finally, two ladies told me that there was a spot just ahead, right next to the creek! This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. Campsite 1: Upper Golden Trout Lake. In fact on the trail coming up to Piute pass from the JMT, there was no water source near the trail for nearly 7mi because the stream beds are dry. The trail leads through Double and Blayney meadows. The final day we packed out. Evolution Lake has lots of excellent campsites. Once there, you will want several days to enjoy the tranquility of the valley and explore the surrounding lakes, canyons, and peaks. Some hike this route from the other direction, north to south. The trail condition is great, although it get pretty rocky around Muir Pass. Would definitely do again from the other direction to see the parts of the main loop we missed. 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. Camp at Wanda Lake along the trail to Muir Pass; no campsites after first quarter mile (night 3). the mouth of Evolution Valley. The most challenging part of the hike was crossing the river. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. We hiked up to Piute Creek the first day it was 13.1 miles since the ferry was not running on our hike up. The canister is a whole lotta bulky but is worth its weight should a bruin decide hed like some chocolate with his berries. Beautiful and challenging in a good way. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. No more High Sierra tundra for me today! Plenty of water along the trail and also plenty of places to camp. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. This is about the halfway spot. What a sight! Privacy Policy, Learn about the Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. Then it is violently opposed. On our way back we crossed even more upstream, and thank goodness we did, because it was a lot shallower there (water came up right below my hips) which made it much easier to cross. The forest and meadows of Evolution Valley had been very beautiful, as had the waterfalls along the way. I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. From there, you head back west and up up up to Evolution Valley and then Evolution Basin - finally topping out at the summit of Muir Pass. $4,395: August 13-21. We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. I am now a retired academic, so I was able, in all three trips, to exploit my college timing to hike in early September before the start of classes. Breathtaking landscapes. Then climbs through Evolution Meadow and Evolution Valley to reach Evolution Lake; 4,850 ft. of climb, 3,400 ft. of descent in 28 miles. Our camps were very high, all above 11,300', and we took two and a half days layover, hiking and exploring . The trail wandered along through the forest, not far from Evolution Creek, which was flowing peacefully and slow. Well worth every step! Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. Very exciting. Beautiful alpine lakes, waterfalls, and my God the meadows. That was the new plan, I decided. Did this 8/8-8/12, 5 days / 4 nights. Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. No water issues at all--everything is flowing well. beautiful. Which didnt happen until I reached Piute Creek and the metal bridge that crossed it. That was a big mistake. Inside the hut, I swear I felt intensely connected with the energy of the many hikers who entered tired, cold and grateful. When I walk through this area again, perhaps I will do the same so I can see it from another perspective. Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. Started at North Lake Trailhead and ended at South Lake. We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. I put on my night clothing and used a bit of DEET on my face to repel them. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. It often has waterfalls cascading from its outlet because of the abrupt drop off. Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. Elevation 4400 feet Didnt see a bear which a good thing. Most of the fellas caught small California Golden trout in the lake. Its about half way down Dusy basin. Bishop and Muir Pass are still very snowy. Maybe I was oxygen-starved, but my companions said they were similarly affected. It is, of course, the perfect time for this 5 - 7 day hike. Darwin via the class 3 West Ridge. Yay! The route my two amigas and I traveled lies in the trio of Kings Canyon National Park, Inyo National Forest and Sierra National Forest. The first day of hiking is over moderate terrain with meadows and the occasional company of the South Fork of the San Joaquin River. Notice that when I downsized my load I didnt ditch the tequila. As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. Evolution Valley - Key Facts Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park Trailhead: Florence Lake, 84 miles east of Fresno, elevation 7,300 feet Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet Elevation gain: 2200 feet Hiking Distance: 19 miles Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . Following that, we returned to North Lake via Lamarck Col, a high pass just short of 13,000'. Video of a waterfall on Piute Creek near my campsite in lower Piute Canyon. My first suggestion is if you have seven days to make this trip, your body and spirit will thank you. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Pingback: Tahoe hiking: Bay View to Azure Lake. About two miles after leaving camp, we exited off the PCT/John Muir trail and started up to Piute Pass. Pictures posted. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. My two recommendations. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Okay, I need my camera again. Day 2: In the morning, we broke camp early and switch-backed up to Bishop Pass. Sawyer Water Filters are popular because of their light weight and ease of use, but the bags they provide are susceptible to developing leaks. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. My mood was improving by the minute! I left the trail to follow right along the creek, and took way too many photos and videos. The traditional route goes over Piute Pass and down through Humphreys Basin, taking a long time before turning the corner and climbing up to Evolution Valley. The display of grand peaks, a broad, grassy meadow, and a gently meandering stream make the valley a popular destination. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. I went down to the water and splashed some on my head. We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! This was an epic backpacking trip and I would do it all over again to see evolution basin, and everything in between. Fill up on gas at Prather or Shaver Lake. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. The trail immediately climbed high above the creek, and stayed there, perched on the canyon wall. Best seasons: Mid-summer to fall 6 days / 5 night. Next time will have to aim to go under 30 pounds. It tasted cold and fresh. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. Roundtrip mileage to the McClure Meadow Ranger Station from the south end of Florence Lake is about 15.5 miles and 1500 feet of elevation gain. Do you wish to share an stories about that particular spot? We slept near the shores of Evolution Lake. $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. The next morning, we continued on the Piute Trail and crossed the bridge onto the John Muir Trail (JMT) where we were paralleling a fast-moving San Joaquin River located within the Kings Canyon National Park. Some hikers like to stop for a soak at the public hot springs across the river, just beyond the Muir Trail Ranch. After 2.5 mile it crosses a bridge to the south side of the river where a good campsite is located. It was high noon, I realized, and there wasnt any shade at all on the trail with the sun beaming straight down between the trees. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. I highly recommend this one. Massive trail work project that ascends a sheer gully with switchbacks stacked on top of one another like wacky Jenga blocks. Good campsites can be found there also. Here is a brief summary of our route: South Lake Trailhead - Bishop Pass - Dusy Basin - LeConte Canyon - Muir Pass - Evolution Valley - Puite Creek Canyon - Humphrey's Basin - Piute Pass - North Lake Trailhead. Head out on this 30.7-mile out-and-back trail near Lakeshore, California. We camped alone; in fact, we camped alone every night of the trip. Youll find other good campsites on this knoll. If I did this, then I might make it over Piute Pass the next day, and hike out early on the final day, which would allow me to drive home later on that afternoon. This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. Pick up the trail on the eastern edge of Upper Lamarck Lake. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more. Good campsites can be found along the river beyond the Piute Creek bridge. Get surefire solitude in McGee Canyon (south about .5 mile back). Hiked 6/12-6/17. In August we did North lake to south lake direction which avoided the climb up to Bishop pass. Definitely one of my favorite trips ever. We were usually finished hiking each day between 2-5 PM giving us plenty of time to enjoy the area. The air seemed to be getting a bit cooler, so I packed up my stuff and headed out. Day 1 South Lake over Bishop Pass to Upper Dusy Basin: 7.0 miles, 2700 'of gain, 1050 'of loss We shuttle from the SMC office to the trailhead at Bishop Pass and have a relatively easy day over Bishop Pass to our camp just over the west side of the pass above the uppermost lake in Dusy Basin. Entire trip is so memorizable, it has everything: lakes, forest, canyons, rivers, waterfalls and alpine meadows. Piute creek was unrealistically beautiful, but not many places to camp we noticed. Bridge at JMT junction Stream crossing below Goddard Canyon turnoff Bridge below Goddard Canyon Back across Goddard Canyon Log crossing below Evolution Meadow View up Evolution Valley Gould, Mendel, and Darwin Darwin to Huxley, the Evo traverse crux It was quite dramatic. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. The Florence Lake Store carries basic food and camping supplies. The hike isn't strenuous, and even the switchbacks didn't feel that bad. Me either, until we exited the forest at about 11,000 feet and monster granite views appeared. 5 trip report day 12-16: Muir Trail Ranch to Onion Valley Trailhead. Mather Pass . Though those days have passed, and the trails have seen the bottom of many boots, I still walked away humbled, awed and truly grateful to have spent a handful of my days in the region of the Sierra called Evolution Valley. The ferry was not running yet. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. John muir pass was hardest part, rained and was windy. Day 2: Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park). I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). One bite of the Evolution area is document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Your email address will not be published. This was the most difficult day as we ascended over 3200 with 30+ & 40+ lb packs. The rest were lazy snoozers. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. Follow signs pointing to Kings Canyon National Park. Actually now that we've gone to North to South, I'd hope to go the opposite direction someday, as the ascent to Muir Pass via LeConte Canyon would be thrilling. We fell about 2 miles short of the destination endpoint with loss of daylightlesson learned, if this is a short weekend excursion, you need to get there early and push through hard. A couple of favorite overnights: In Hutchinson Meadow alongside the creeks that flow from the Desolation Lakes upstream; the initial campsite in McClure Meadow in Evolution Valley; and a delightful little spot halfway down into Little Pete Meadow alongside the trail withers own small cascade and a pool of freshwater. Thanks to Covid regulations, the signs posted trailside asked people not to visit unless it was an emergency, One of the signs mentioned a Bold, Aggressive, Large Bear that had been raiding food at the Piute Creek area exactly where I planned to stay that night! Mosquitos were pretty bad in the meadows, and none up at Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray! however, if you are an average backpacker like me, expect some brutal acents and decents. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. It is visible from the trail, but some hikers have walked past it without noticing it. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. Location: Northern Kings Canyon National Park Golden trout present. classic Sierra beauty from the very start. Evolution Valley Ascension, Kings Canyon National Park and John Muir Wilderness, California Sierra Club Outings Trip | Backpack More Photos Highlights Traverse high mountain passes including Piute and Muir Hike among lush green meadows full shallow tarns Enjoy a layover day to explore or relax Includes And it was! Day four Rest and explore. We puzzled about the cause. Day four Rest and explore. We hiked the whole way out the third day, back around the lake to the car. Florence Lake Store and Ferry. At least there might be shade along this section, I thought to myself. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. But it was still too hot for climbing, I told myself. Only done it North to South. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! The trail is quite rocky in most places so slower than you might expect given the elevation profile. I was OK with this, as its hard to tell distance when youre hiking fast downhill, as it feels so much different heading the other way. The hike to Evolution Valley was exposed and hot at times. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. I want to hike West to East in the lowest part of the evolution valley, beginning at Edison Lake. Conditions were great! Again, I will say that there is plenty of water the whole way, so drink up. I have done this trail three times in all. You could do a quick trip, via Echo Col in both directions, in about 4 days. counter-balance method. No rain. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Only one water crossing (Evolution creek) that required getting your feet wet. The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. Overnight temps didn't drop below 40 F. I like the big vistas so I think I would do the Lamarck Col Route from the North Lake Trailhead to Evolution Lake next time and skip Piute Canyon. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. . After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. From here, it's west and south down and into the epic Le Conte Canyon. Another 1.5 miles up the canyon is the turnoff to Evolution Valley. Water was everywhere but crossings were Ok. Bugs were not a issue. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. . A number of camp sites here. Evolution Basin. Before last pass go to side trail golden trout lake to spend a night. Mendel, which is part of the Evolution range. This trail goes by Loch Leven, Piute Pass, Summit Lake, Upper Golden Trout Lake, Lamarck Col, and North Lake Campground. Day 1: The first day held an unexpected bonus in that, inadvertently, it turned out to be Get-used-to-less-oxygen Day. Ascending Muir Pass from south to north was incredible. By the time I was ready to hike I looked down at the tents below me on the shore of the lake and only one person had crawled out of their tent. The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. Campsite 2: Just past the footbridge over Piute Creek, set up camp on these designated pads. South Lake From South Lake, hike 6.0 miles up Bishop Pass (11,972 ft.). The McClure Meadow is one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen! The mosquitos were relentless though. Highly recommend pushing up to lower Dusy Basin (though there are several campsites about 1200 vertical feet up from Le Conte, just prior to a bridge crossing) (night 4). 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