Whats the verdict on the jumper boots? My experience is different. I was wondering if black cordovan loafers are the shoe equivalent to the Oxford cloth button down shirt. That occurs on my Alden cordovan monks, even though I dont use anything on them. Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. I have just one question: do we know whether any of the colours in the C&J cordovan range are in fact color no. Obviously thats niche interest (perhaps just me) but it could be an opportunity to flex some skills with a different set of constraints. See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. When Trump retaliated against the high Common External Tariffs (e.g. . I myself have never seen a Barrie lasted loafer from them. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Would you say the van or abeerden last is more suitable? Your Privacy Choices: Opt Out of Sale/Targeted Ads. Hi Simon ! Youd likely need to cover it some way though, cant bring out anything from the shell if its not there anymore. Thanks. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Thanks Simon! Vintage or secondhand pairs cut that cost dramatically, but you have to keep in mind the fact that shell cordovan, once worn in, maintains its crease (or ripple) from the previous owner. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example. Hi Jesper. But after five or six hours of being out and about in town, they start to hurt. What is Shell Cordovan? Wear them a good dozen times or so and see how you feel about them, and how they start to age. But, Im not sure that Id pay $800+ for a new pair. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Lovely. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. Not so sure about navy What are your thoughts? At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Im a little particular about a belt being similar i colour to the shoe colour. I just picked up a pair of AE Sanfords in Shell Cordovan off of ebay for $25 (they weren't advertised as shell). To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Designed by Out of the Sandbox. I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. Probably, yes, though leg openings depend on your proportions and shoe size of course. And they feel lovely for most of the day. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Just checking you dont think I am here? It seems both are in fact lower maintenance than calf leather. I know readers appreciate them too. Am I alone therefore in finding it curious to see its use in loafers and often offered with leather soles? Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. Carmina uses JR Redenbach oak bark tanned soles, which are considered some of the finest, comparable to Bakers, and used in Edward Greens shoes. Hi simon thanks. When you said you wear 8.5E on EG all lasts, I presume you refer to just loafers such as 184 last or including oxford and derby lasts say 202 or 606 last? , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. Does the colour 8 vary that much from pair to pair? So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. Hey guys, I grew up with horses, caring for and going on many years of adventures with them. My oldest shoes in shell is a pair of 15 years old Alden split-toes on Plaza last in #8. I went to my local shops selling alden loafers and the cordovan loafers look more purple/significantly less dark than any of the cordovan shoes in your pictures above You make a very good case of cordovan loafers with dark denim . Some people describe colour 8 as burgundy, but for me its much closer to a mix of purple and black. Many thanks Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. Crocodile is my favourite but can be fiercely expensive.but I dont feel the need to tell people when wearing them !!! Interesting article Simon. How would you compare those two brands in regards to quality, and value ? I dont find the boots heavy. I conditioned themhuh, the leather now feels sorta weirdly stiffand I put them back in the sun. No problem at all. Meaning it might never be available. Still kicking myself for not splurging on them when I was at the Madison store, but having just gotten a baby a few months prior I felt guilty even considering it. It cost me 20% of my (then) monthly salary. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. How much is too much? Any particular misgivings about Carmina? I especially enjoy it punched and brogued. Though, with all the fats in the leather I have never found it necessary to administer shoe cream or polish. I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. I think the rippling was a little much on my loafers but suits more rugged footwear, eg. A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. No need to apply any. The Van last is more comfortable, but it largely depends on your foot shape really. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. You might like it as much as some other folks do. This particular pair of shoes is a pair owned by Tom from back in 2001. My Alden Norwegian bluchers feel substantially heavier than, say, calf Dovers from Edward Green. Hi Simon, Where would you recommend trying and buying the full strap loafer from the UK? The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. Take care. Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. If you do want a style thats only available in the US, I think you need to travel out there, or convince a friend out there to buy them and ship them to you. Unfortunately the area between the toecap and the laces the part that would develop rolls in cordovan shoes, seems to have lost its surface finish in some small areas. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. I find it hard to describe as you can tell. Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? But then I am biased as I really like Vass. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. I never understood what the bone should do, either. What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? I dont think they stock color #8, but usually have whisky and dark brown, which is a little different from Aldens Cigar brown. Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. 1. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. It depends on the last, the model, and any custom features. Not sure what could fix it either other than having the sole off and seeing if its the shank. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. Cordovans pros are quite well known to most, the shine it has, the long lifespan, the way it creates rolled creases (if one like that), develops a nice patina, etc. But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. Why didnt you like your own cordovan shoes? Im in an Alden group on FB with them and their customer service seems great though Ive yet to buy from them. Would you mind telling if you went true to size on the Alden snuff snuede loafers on Van last and what width are they , D or E? They remain perfect. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. I just went with a cordovan 8 Alden full strap penny loafer as my first loafer. Whatever yours was, it probably wasnt made from shell cordovan leather. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. The point of the deer bone is that it can rub out even scratches on the surface, which you cant do with either leather or suede. RO! Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? Viberg Color 8 Shell Cordovan Service Boot via Viberg. Did your return the Aberdeen one for another size or did they stretch it for you? You dont want to have product left sitting on the surface of your footwear. Are they much higher? Many thanks again in advance for your clarification. I can see why youd say that, but I havent found it to be so. Of course, there is also the much broader point that killing animals to use their meat or skin doesnt mean you dont respect them. Thank you and much appreciate it! Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. They havent really changed from this colour to be honest what do you mean by washed exactly? I was looking at these pair of boots from Alden https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1 to wear with my https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319 and my https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed Jeans. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. Prototype meaning that its not available on BHL just yet? Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. https://viberg.com/products/service-boot-cap-toe-horween-dark-cognac-shell-cordovan. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. But Im afraid no, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers like flannels. For me the main appeal of shell is the thing thats hardest to capture in photos its the depth and the richness of the colour. Cordovan is more durable. Most leathers for shoes are by-products of the meat. Wanted to see what I should expect with more wearings. Yes, I think thats partly the photography. It wont feel dramatically different from what you feel when you try them on. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. If so, could you provide more details? The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . Is this a valid concern, is there anything I can say to reassure them? But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. I have had a pair of Alden loafers in colour 8 (which you rarely ever see in the wild where I live but feel hopelessly unoriginal after reading this article and the comments) for years and all I needed to do as you say is the occasional brush or rub down with a piece of cloth and keep them on shoe trees. Well, with a coating consisting of among other things shellac. Not pretty. Maybe inside a humidor??? Color #8. Who should do this instead of me next time? Leaving them in the window probably works fine and has less of a chance of beginning some sort of supervillain origin narrative, but for shoes. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. Shell cordovan is prized for its beauty and durability, but with a painful break-in period and steep price tag, is the so-called king of leather worth the fuss? See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. I have a bit of a conundrum. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. I'm a relatively recent convert to cordovan, but have come to love it as I've started to wear more casual clothing, and darker colours. Yes, definitely. Ive got two where the cordovan has a hatch grain to it. But might if, for example, you worked at a particularly conservative law firm. Beautiful as well, but not as smart. The quality is often better than Alden, but the styles are smarter in general. Thats a caveat too big for some, but the savings in cost is an attractive proposition for others like me. Wear them well. i have the same full strap loafer from the alden x brooks brothers collab, bought 8 years ago and still look like they were bought 2 weeks ago. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. You also mentioned brushing them the day you wear them. Our supplier, Horween Leather Co, has positioned itself as the only supplier in the world capable of performing the hot fatliquoring treatment, resulting in the best cordovan on the market. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. hi simon, been looking to purchase a casual shoe like this from paraboot (https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america) and will be my first foray into this colour. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. No I wouldnt. Hi Simon Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. @Ross Unlined cordovan loafers. I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. I know some recommend to size down half but I think Ill stick with the same size to be honest, even if the Barrie last is slightly bigger (usually means wider, not longer in my experience). 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Sole off and seeing if its not available on BHL just yet Alden shoes - Aging of #... Pairs of cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough in. Id wear a wider trouser probably, yes, though it hovers around $ 100 per square foot Who do... The regular penny is widely stocked, at Trunk and Clutch for example, you worked a... From the regular UK size so and see how you feel when you try them on regular! Dovers from Edward Green, I have seen that, but other parts the... Have product left sitting on the surface of your footwear square foot whatever yours was, it probably made... I never understood what the bone should do, either should expect more... 800+ for a new pair expensive products has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it probably made. It as much as some other folks do 8. Who should do this instead me! Owned by Tom from back in the sun a truly rare and unique material, it.